Putting the Fun back into Bordeaux

PUTTING THE FUN BACK INTO BORDEAUX.

08 July 2022

Historically, when asked “Who is your typical Bordeaux drinker?” I would always picture a small table with two middle aged businessmen in their tailored suits whispering by candlelight over a bottle of “Claret.” An image that just oozes pretentiousness, elitism and sexism, and an image that should be left in the last century, and on top of that – it sounds…well….boring. Wine from all four corners of the Globe is for everyone to enjoy, and producers in Bordeaux are pulling out all the stocks to embrace this, and Vagabond wants to help!

Bordeaux and the United Kingdom have had a bit of a love/hate relationship over the centuries, but more of the former to make it a ‘go to’, especially around Christmas time due to the structured red wines coming from the region. However, like dogs, Bordeaux wines are not just for Christmas. Vagabond has partnered up with Vins de Bordeaux to promote the fun sides and diversity through certain wine styles that Bordeaux has to offer, that are rarely seen outside of France.

Bordeaux….that is sparkling?! Just take my money. Crémants have been France’s little secret for a number of years.

Typically you will see Crémants from different regions including Bourgogne, Loire and Alsace, but the French have hogged the wines for themselves as they provide incredible value for money, when Champagne is a bit of a hit to the wallet. With the cost of living going up across the board, keep an eye on the crisp and refreshing wine that is Crémant de Bordeaux, such as the Haut-Mouleyre Crémant.

In the mid 1990’s, white varieties used to make up about a quarter of all plantings, and even further back in the 1970’s, the most planted single varietal was Semillon. Sadly, mainly due to market demands, the plantings of white varietals has dropped to around 10%. But there is so much fun to be had with this 10%. The main varieties here are Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle (with some others in smaller quantities – Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Sauvignon Gris & Ugni Blanc).

Traditional winemaking has often led to either very crisp dry white wines, or the decadent sweet Sauternes style (more on that later). The dry styles generally come from the subregions of Entre-Deux-Mers (“between two seas”, referred to the region between the two rivers Dordogne to the north and the Garonne to the south) for the more affordable white wines, and regions of Pessac-Leognan and Graves for the more age worthy styles.

However, a younger generation of winemakers are playing around with the production to make wines more exciting and textured.

For those who have never tried a Bordeaux Blanc before, why not try the Château La Rose du Pin Blanc from Entre-Deux-Mers. This sauvignon blanc dominant blend with Semillon is crisp, dry, and incredibly aromatic, and great on a hot summer’s afternoon. For something a bit different, there is the Semillon dominant Bordeaux AOC the Clos des Lunes – Lune d’Argent Blanc 2020. Produced by the team behind Domaine de Chevalier (white wine gurus) and from vineyards neighbouring legendary Chateau Yquem and Guiraud, what is not to love?! A more herbal and citrus aroma profile gives way to a beautifully grainy textured palate – making this perfect for any barbeque.

And lastly another Bordeaux AOC coming from Sauternes – La Sémillante de Siglas 2017 from Château Sigalas Rabaund. Healthy (non-botrytised) Semillon grapes were harvested and 8 months in oak to provide an explosion of fresh flavours of apricot and passion fruit with the richness and spice from the bit of age in bottle.

Without doubt the Queen of all sweet wine in France and probably the World is Sauternes – situated on the left bank (south side of the Garonne River).

Known as it is in this small region of 1,700 hectares, where the humidity and sunshine work in such harmony, so the varieties of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc attract a type of rot – of the Noble variety. As a result the wines are concentrated sugary nectar of the Gods. To try a fresher styled classic, try the Château Briatte 2016.

But there is more to sweet Bordeaux than just Sauternes. Almost facing Sauternes, is the Loopy juice from Loupiac. Production is similar to it’s neighbour, so the grapes undergo a vigorous selection to keep the berries with the Noble rot to provide that richness and sweet flavours that Sauternes has to offer at a snippet of the price. Château Dauphine-Rondillon Loupiac 2009 – the winemakers travel through the vines no fewer than 5 times to ensure the timing is just perfect. Well worth a try.

Just north of Loupiac is the stylishly named Cadillac is another such region, with just 130 hectares under vine. From producer Château La Fayau, their Cadillac sweet 2013 is rich and luscious, although a touch fresher than Loupiac. Think sweet pineapple and spice. And it is in the perfect drinking window.

Let’s join the movement and turn Bordeaux to Fun-deaux!